After spending two beautiful nights on the relaxed shores of East Coast Tasmania, we continued our journey to the northwestern alpine region. We took Lake Leeake Highway, cutting through the heart of the state. The landscape dramatically changes from coastal views to midlands, agricultural land, and then later transform into stunning alpine valleys, button-grass plains and towering Eucalyptus trees.
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Road Trip from Swansea to Cradle Mountain – 360 km : 3.5 hours
The quiet historic towns of central midlands, where you can barely see any traffic does make you feel quite isolated from the rest of the world. We stopped at Epping Forest Road House for coffee, where I spotted Tassie Truckie Memorial Wall – a monument that honours Tasmanian truck drivers who lost their lives. Located at Epping Forest, it serves as a solemn place for families and the community to remember them.
From here, the Midlands Highway took us through the rural heartland of rolling golden pastures. We breezed past the old towns, origin dating back to 1821, as Tasmania was one of the earliest British settlements in Australia. Within 20 minutes, we reached Perth, which serves as a gateway between the farmlands and alpine towns. Deloraine, nestled right at the base of the Great Western Tiers escarpment, is one of the most beautiful historic towns I came across on this trip. Shimmering lakes, green rolling hills, and red brick houses – this town is picture perfect.
Since we wanted to reach our hotel before dark, we didn’t stop at many beautiful places I came across. I hope to go back and explore them someday.
Mount Roland, near Sheffield, dominated the skyline for many miles. I could never forget how stunning it looked as we drove closer to its foothills.
Also called the Town of Murals, this town is Tasmania’s outdoor art gallery. I saw numerous Murals on the walls of old buildings and brick walls. A fascinating juxtaposition of untamed nature and man-made masterpieces.
As the landscape is wild and rugged, there aren’t many villages after Sheffield. The final leg of the drive from Sheffield to Cradle Mountain is an incredible showcase of Tasmania’s dramatic geographic shifts. In just under an hour, the scenery transforms from soft, green foothills into a raw, weather-beaten sub-alpine plateau. It felt like stepping into a completely different ecological world. One moment, you are on a vertical ascent to ancient wilderness, and the other, you come across plains with button-grass moorlands rippling in the mountain wind, stunted vegetation, and bare trees. Driving here feels otherworldly and mesmerizing. Soon you can see the jagged outlines of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair high country.
After our wild and adventurous drive through the highlands, we reached the cozy comfort of Cradle Mountain Hotel. The room was warm and inviting, but nothing beat the view of the wilderness right outside the window. While checking out the balcony, I looked down into the bush, lo and behold – an echidna foraging right underneath the wooden platform. What a pleasant welcome to this beautiful abode. Our tryst with wilderness didn’t just stop here. In the evening, while enjoying a hot cup of coffee, we also spotted the local wallaby family – two adults and a tiny baby close on toe – hopping on the boardwalks.
At night, when the darkness fell over the forest, the sky turned into a magnificent canvas of stars. I braved the night chill and stared at the constellations glimmering from the past.
Dove Lake circuit
The next day, we secured our shuttle tickets from the Cradle Mountain visitor center and set off for the Dove Lake Circuit, one of the most breathtaking hikes in the world. Carved by glaciers 10,000 years ago, the valley is prehistoric and pristine. I was every bit as amazed as I was on my first visit – simply staring in silence at the deep blue color of the lake and iconic towering peaks of Cradle Mountain.
Returning to this landscape was incredible, but sharing it with my six-year-old made it extra special. With a backpack loaded with Doritos, chips, chocolates, and other motivating treats, plus the mandatory water and sunscreen, we hit the 6-km trail.
The dramatic landscape was sculpted by massive rivers of ice during the last Ice Age (around 20,000 years ago), when a huge glacier carved out the deep basin that now holds Dove Lake. As the glacier retreated, it left behind the iconic jagged spires of Cradle Mountain.
I love how the landscape changes every 20 minutes. Starting clockwise, we immediately came across massive, Insta-worthy views of Cradle Mountain towering over the water. As you walk further along, the track runs close to the lake, leading you right past mountain beaches with bright white “sand” made of crushed quartz. You get both beachy and mountain vibes!!
We walked on boardwalks running under a canopy of trees, stony pathways, and a whole section brightened by blooming pink and white alpine flowers and Waratah.
Soon we passed right under the mountain’s dramatic cliff faces, crossing little wooden bridges over rushing streams, before stepping straight into the Ballroom Forest.
Ballroom Forest is definitely my favorite part of the Dove Lake circuit. The sky disappears, the temperature drops, and soon the trees reflect a dreamy shade of green. We stopped here for half an hour, enjoying the sounds of nature, sitting along the moss-laden trunks and a fresh stream of spring water gushing into the lake.
The ballroom forest looks straight out of a fairy tale.
Once we popped out of the Ballroom Forest, we were on the last stretch of the walk, which is a bit more exposed than other sections. The terrain is comparatively more rugged and steep.
We took many water and chocolate breaks – hydrating and catching our breaths, also encouraging our son to keep going.
And soon we reached the 1930s timber boatshed. Said to be one of the most photographed spots in Australia.
On my previous visit, we took a shoulder route through Wombat Pool to Ronny Creek, which was another 2 hours of walking. Read more – Dove Lake Circuit – 2018
As my son was exhausted, we returned to the Dove Lake visitor center and took a shuttle to the Overland Track bus stop. Here, my husband and son rested on the boardwalks, playing a game of “I spy with my little eyes“, while I went on a short solo stroll on the first leg of Overland Track – admiring the golden button-grass moorlands and relishing the crisp mountain air. I did spot a lovely family of wombats on soft rolling hills, foraging in the wild.
Content, completely wiped out, and with a six-year-old who had officially earned his ultimate hiker status, we made our way back to the comfort of the hotel. It was a day of conquering big milestones, tiny wildlife encounters, and making memories that will stay with us for a long time.
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